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Cor Pie-me! London's worst pies

To celebrate British Pie Week (March 6-12), London Unlocked has explored the two perennials of London life – pies and murder. These pillars of London have been immortalised in Victorian literature, with no other character embodying them more than Sweeney Todd. Todd was the cut-throat barber with a penchant for murdering his clients, who were then made into ‘artisan’ baked goods by his neighbour, Mrs Lovett.
Londoners enjoying their pie and mash. Image via Britishfoodhistory
170 years after the 18-part weekly series – The String of Pearls – finished on 20 March 1847, the stories of Sweeney Todd have riveted and repulsed in equal measure; the original penny dreadfuls and most of the other older adaptations can be found in the British Library archives. Charles Dickens mentions the idea of non-traditional sources for meat pies in his novels The Pickwick Papers and Martin Chuzzlewit. Some suggest that Dickens was inspired by the ‘real’ Sweeney Todd, but feared to mention him by name in case any of the victims’ relatives were still alive.
The reality is unfortunately more palatable. Time has tamed London’s pie fillings, so no need to second guess what lies beneath that short-crust. Even the hipsters have yet to add their flair to this institute of the capital. London is behind in the quest for unusual flavour, with Melton Mowbray’s Nice Pie company leading the way with crocodile, zebra and squirrel pies. That said, the traditional pie fillings are pretty weird and not for the unadventurous. Traditional Eel and Stargazey pies can be found in any London pie shop, just don’t expect them to taste the same as each place has their own secret recipe.

ROBYN STANTON-HUMPHREYS
MARCH ISSUE AVAILABLE NOW

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